Slow Beauty Cleansing Milk

Pictured: A batch of my Slow Beauty Cleansing Milk featuring Rose and Soapnut. I did a series of these cleansers a few years back to test out a few different ingredient combos as well as to test the limits and capabilities of this particular emulsifier. The rose and soapnut combination performed beautifully repeatedly.

The best part? It's relatively easy to make.

This formula utilises a COSMOS certified and organic emulsifier (and oil thickening agent) that can be used either hot or cold (which is kind of cool if you ask me).

Today I'm going to show you how I made this cold process emulsion.

Spoiler alert: there's a reason the title includes 'Slow Beauty'.

COSMOS Emulsifier

After fooling around with Sucragel a while and discovering its quirks, I think the positives outweigh the negatives - especially in a DIY or small batch setting. It seems the jury is still out on whether or not Sucragel does well for larger batch sizes and I'm assuming this is because of the mentioned quirks, but we'll get into those in a minute.

What's in an Emulsifier

Sucragel is pretty widely available. I tried using it from a couple of suppliers as it is always a good idea to try ingredients from different suppliers. There can be differences in how an ingredient performs - even if it has the same INCI.

The INCI of the Sucragel I am using here is as follows: Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis oil, Sucrose laurate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis fruit water

Because this is a glycerine based ingredient, adding more glycerine to your formula could be a bit overkill, so if you are thinking of adding your own glycerites to an emulsion where you are using Sucragel, you'll probably want to keep it at a lower percentage.

Depending on the texture you are aiming for, you can dose sucragel from 6 - 20% of your formula. This emulsion has a creamy, non-greasy feel and a viscosity that is my idea of cleansing milk perfection.

Because I had some bottles that held about 150 ml, my batch size here is calculated for 150 gr.

Shall we get busy?

LisaLise's Slow Beauty Cleansing Milk with Rose & Soapnut

Phase	Ingredient	Grams
A	Demineralised Water	63.0
A	Xanthan Gum	0.8
A	Soapnut (dry extract)	3.0
A	Rosewater	23.8
A	Broad Spectrum Preservative of choice	0.9
B	Rose Infused Castor Oil	42.0
B	Sucragel	16.5

Method

1. Combine phase A ingredients and allow to sit for 15 minutes.

2. Combine phase B by slowly adding the oil to the sucragel bit by bit and stirring until homogenous with each addition. When combined, let stand for 15 minutes.

3. Stir phase B again.

4. Add phase A to Phase B little by little, stirring well in between additions.

5. Adjust pH if necessary

6. Transfer to container

Sucragel Quirks

Fair warning: it can seem arduous transforming Sucragel and oil into a homogenous whole. My supplier recommends adding the oil to the sucragel ‘drop by drop’ and stirring until thoroughly incorporated in between additions.

Admittedly, this process takes a bit of patience but the good news is, it can be done by hand and without the use of electrical mixers with excellent results.

I’ve tried using different stirring implements (both 'electrified' and 'non electrified'), adding the oil to the sucragel faster (or in larger amounts at a time), stirring less, and just about every combo I could think of to speed the process up.

My experience to date is: the slower you go, the better and more stable a result you get. Read: if you even try to rush it, you really risk an unstable emulsion. Also my experience: using a wide, flexible spatula to work the ingredients together gives the best results.

And now you know why I call this is a 'slow beauty' formula. So if you don't have time to 'get your zen on', do wait for a day when you're ready to give slow-making a go.

pH Notes

The ingredient variations I made to my own batches all resulted in pH levels ranging between 4.7 - 5.5, so no pH adjustment has been necessary.

Ingredients Notes

Soapnut Extract

Soapnut dry extract is not the same as powdered soapnut and will give you quite different results if you try replacing a dry extract with a powder. Stay tuned for a post explaining (and showing) the differences)

If you can't access dry soapnut extract but have soapnuts, you could try doing a decoction and replacing half of the water amount in this formula with your decoction.

Infused Castor Oil

This is quite in line with the slow-going-ness of this formula. I made my own rose-infused castor oil by adding dried rose petals to castor oil and allowing the mixture to cold infuse for a couple of months before straining and using the oil. Depending on the quality and freshness of the dried roses you use, this will add a lovely note of rose to your product.

You could replace the rose with any herb you prefer (lavender and rosemary come to mind as possibilities).

If you don't want to make an oil infusion, just use castor oil.

Rosewater

I made most of my batches with hydrosol, but to be a bit experimental, tried one batch with food grade rosewater (the kind you will find at specialty supermarkets). It worked beautifully and definitely won't be the last time I use rosewater of this type in a cleanser.

Preservative

I used benzyl alcohol in my experimental batches and it performed quite well. Estimated average shelf life: 8 - 12 months.

Do Tell

Have you worked with Sucragel before? What were your experiences? And if you have used Sucragel to make larger batches and are willing to share your thoughts, please feel free to drop a comment below!

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Texture Test

Although you may think of caramel and sweet dessert looking at this photo, it is a side by side test of 2 oleogels with 2 different emulsifiers. I can’t reveal very much just yet, but after numerous of batches with different ingredients interspersed with loads of research and digging around, it looks like we’re getting there.

OK, I just said I couldn’t reveal anything yet, but I’ll tell you anyway.

I’m working on developing a DIY plant-based, easy to make, functional emulsifier.

Why?

Because sometimes an idea just pops into my brain and won’t leave me alone until I get serious with it.

This idea started sometime early last year and has been ongoing in between my other projects, so I haven’t been able to work on it full time, but that’s ok. Sometimes ideas need time to ‘solidify’.

During some of my research, I came across this lovely lady who made her own version of sucragel. (Her emulsifier is fabulous and easy to work with so do give the post a read if you want to try making Heike’s emuslifier).

The idea for my own emulsifier is quite ‘roots’ (read: plant-based to the point of being able to go out and forage for the ingredients). It is getting there, but there are a few more batches and tweaks first.

More to come.

Meantime, if you want to work with emulsifying systems easily sourced from cosmetic ingredient suppliers, the book below walks you through the process of making your own stable hand-stirred emulsions.

An Introduction to Natural Cosmetic Emulsions - Hand-Stirred Lotions and Creams

Formulating on the Fly - Emulsion with DIY Emulsifier

In this previous post, the lovely and generous Heike Käser taught us how to make our own Sugar Ester emulsifier that can be used in much the same way as one normally uses Sucragel (read: it can be used for both cold-mix and heated emulsions).

After making my own first batch of the emulsifier, I was so excited about testing it out, I made an on-the-spot, ‘on the fly’ emulsion.

You: What, Lise?! You didn’t sit down first and calculate everything and then bring out scales and weigh everything properly and write everything down??

Me: Nope. I jumped straight into it with my freshly made emulsifier (but did bring out the scales and notebooks and weighed and wrote everything down as I was working).

Pictured above: my first emulsion using this handcrafted emulsifier.

Today, we’re going to take a look at how to formulate on the fly.

Warning (and TOP TIP)

Don’t skip any of the steps or you’ll never be able to recreate your formula (and wouldn’t that be annoying if your very first batch turns out to be the most pristine perfection you have ever made?)

Here’s How I Made This Emulsion

1. Have every ingredient at room temperature

2. Weigh up desired amount of emulsifier and note weight

3. Weigh up more oil than you think you may need and note weight

4. Add oil slowly and work in thoroughly until the texture is appealing (see notes on stirring method below)

5. Weigh container with remaining (unused) oil and note weight (math to be done later)

6. Weigh up water phase (using same procedure as oil)

7. Add water phase to mixture bit by bit and work in thoroughly until the texture is appealing

8. Note weight of remaining water

9. Check pH (this one was good to go)

10. Weigh emulsion

11. Calculate and add preservative

12. Transfer to final container ( the pot you see pictured above).

The Last (and Very Important) Step

After all the on-the-fly fun at the workbench, there is an important final step: grab a cup of your favorite beverage and sit down to do the math to determine the exact percentages of the ingredients used so you can finalize your formula.

Skipping this step can have dire consequences if you discover you have created perfection and want to make another batch but realize you didn’t take enough notes to do the necessary math. (Don’t say I didn’t warn you)

Stirring Method

Heike’s suggested method for using this DIY emulsifier includes using a high speed mixing tool after all ingredients have been mixed, but I decided to see what would happen if I simply did everything using my regular hand-stirring technique.

Spoiler alert: the texture is a winner.

Obviously, a few repeat performances are necessary before this can be pronounced a full success.

Ingredients in this Emulsion

• Handcrafted emulsifier (see how to make it here)

• Coriander seed oil

• Handcrafted goldenrod hydrosol

• Preservative (I used Naticide)

Emulsion Impressions

This is a very oil-rich emulsion where a little goes a long way. The cream feels super lightweight yet decadently rich and goes on smoothly with absolutely no soaping or tackiness.

It smells amazing too (but then again, I chose ingredients that smell amazing).

This wont be my last batch, but I will probably be combining a few oils for future batches. An emulsion this oil-rich can be quite greasy feeling on the skin if you use more than a small amount and because I am a hopeless slatherer, few drier feeling oils will need to be included.

Finally, let me share a couple of extra tips from Heike

• Be mindful of pH. Sucrose stearate is sensitive to acidic ingredients. To avoid separation, dilute any acids (such as lactic acid, etc) before adding them to your mixture.

• The emulsion may turn out thinner with the addition of alcohols, acids, or if you employ vigorous stirring.

Do Tell

Have you ever formulated on the fly? Did you remember to take notes?

An Introduction to Natural Cosmetic Emulsions - Hand-Stirred Lotions and Creams

How to Make Your Own Emulsifier

Today, I’m going to share a few cosmetics making secrets with you.

Not long ago, a lovely member of my Facebook group posted a link to a website that showed you how to make your own ‘Sucragel-style’ emulsifier.

(insert gasp of joy and delight)

As not everyone around the globe can source Sucragel (particularly in the smaller amounts commonly required and desired for artisan cosmetic makers), I’m sure you can imagine how much excitement this generated.

I had to try the formulation (that’s it up there at the top of this post) and at the same time decided to contact author and formulator Heike Käser of Olionatura to ask if she would allow me to (translate and) share her formulation on my blog.

Not only was she positive about the idea, she even agreed to be interviewed! Please join me in welcoming the lovely and talented Heike Käser of Olionatura !

Welcome to LisaLise blog Heike! Could you share a bit about how you decided to make and then share this formulation?

Oh, that was a very long time ago, 2008/2009 it must have been. At that time, a store introduced an innovative, gel-like and self-emulsifying compound based on a sugar ester (sucrose laurate), glycerin and oil, called "Sucragel". I researched the subject and learned that this composition forms special liquid-crystalline structures that reliably incorporate water and other lipids into a stable emulsion, even when processed cold. Sucrose laurates were not available to end users, but sucrose stearates were. Now lauric acid is a C-12 fatty acid, and stearic acid (both are the starting materials for the esters) is a C-18 fatty acid - it was to be assumed that the result would not be identical. Nevertheless, it worked. I had to experiment a bit on how to combine the individual components; after all, the compound "Sucrogel" should not have to be preserved. Therefore, the water content had to be kept low. Glycerin reduces the water activity of microorganisms, the oil is not microbially susceptible per se. The great thing is that the emulsifier concentration in the final cosmetic product can be kept extremely low. The cream gels are really very light in texture and feel, without being greasy or sticky - already a small innovation in the DIY cosmetics scene at the time.

Why I shared the formulation or the idea? Well, my main profession (I'm a teacher) thrives on the realization that practice without sound knowledge does not yield optimal results. Learning and understanding enables us to develop new things, to critically question results and to develop things together with others. My ideal is that all people should have access to education, to free education. I also live out this ideal in Olionatura.

You formulate cosmetics of all types, teach in seminars, have written books about making natural cosmetics, and generously share many DIY’s from your website. How long have you been formulating and what got you started?

I stirred my first products in 1978 when I was 15 years old. I started developing my current concept in 2006. What interested me was the connection between skin physiological processes and what certain substances can do if there are topical applied. First and foremost, I was fascinated by plant oils - this is how the name "Olionatura" came about and the focus on the use of plant oils in a skin-physiologically oriented cosmetic. The website on the internet was a door opener: there I documented my learning and shared it with others - and the first professionals became aware and contacted me. I was allowed to visit some of them personally (e.g. at the university or in the laboratory), and I am still connected with them today. It is fascinating to talk to people who are "on fire" for their field and to feel their enthusiasm to pass on this knowledge. For me, this is "networking" in the best sense: talking to each other, learning, supporting each other. I have been passing on my knowledge on Olionatura.de since 2006, in books since 2010 and in seminars and coaching sessions since 2015. Today I am happy to see how much has grown from this. Olionatura has become a second professional pillar in recent years, and I have been able to accompany many people on their way: To self-employment, to their first own skincare range ... or to healthy skin.

The motivation for my research was and is a harmonious, sensible, physiological and resource-saving skin care. On top of that: I just love to learn :-) Pressing fresh oils, making extracts, distilling plants, conceiving new product ideas ... all this is creativity and sensuality in beautiful combination.

What is Olionatura working on at the moment? Any exciting plans or projects you would like to share?

After developing effective care products, I have been fascinated by playing with colours for several years: I am currently intensively designing decorative cosmetic products that are composed as minimally as possible, but whose performance and skin compatibility are absolutely convincing. I am currently working on a new book about decorative cosmetics - a great topic, both theoretically and in practical implementation. You have to know: I never used to wear much make-up - now I do it with enthusiasm, and it's especially great when others can't see at first glance that the freshness you're currently radiating comes from the little jar! Well, women can't be fooled so easily, but my husband, for example, doesn't see it directly. Sometimes I ask him for advice, he knows that I have developed something, but not what ... then he looks at me, asks me to step into the light and says "You look good, so fresh ... but I don't know why." That's it! :-)

I'll soon be 60, and it's nice to be able to look rested and vital with few resources. The great thing is: decorative cosmetics are so easy to make and don't cost much. You hardly need any equipment, and the raw materials last a long time. Finally, you can choose your own individual colours and combine them as you like. However, if you are used to conventional products, you have to accept some compromises: Natural cosmetics can't (yet) be 100 % waterproof, and we don't have those bright, "popping" reds that you can get with synthetic dyes. However, it is possible today with a little know-how to realise great products that are also good for the skin.

Until a few years ago, it was difficult for consumers in German-speaking countries to buy high-quality, tested cosmetic pigments. In German shops, there were a handful that were very poorly or incorrectly declared. Most of them were only available in the USA. In 2015, I decided to buy my pigments for my seminars myself, preferably from Germany and Europe (we have really excellent expertise in pigment production in Germany), and to work with them. Since then, really good products have emerged - I haven't bought any deco cosmetics for years except for mascara (and here, too, I hope to find my own solution). Now I have it in my own hands to do without critically discussed AZO dyes, preservatives, silicones and mineral oil derivatives.

So, the short answer to your question is: My current project is the book on decorative cosmetics. When and where it will be published ... I won't tell you yet, quality takes time. But it will come, I promise! :-)

Thank you so much Heike!

And now, with Heike’s gracious permission, I am thrilled to present you with her formulation guide for this ‘Sucragel-style’ emulsifier which I have named ‘Sugar Ester Emulsifier’.

Heike’s DIY Sugar Ester Emulsifier

Phase	Ingredient	%
A	Glycerine	50-55
A	Hydrosol/Demineralised water	10
B	Sucrose Stearate	10
C	Oil of Choice	25-30

How to put the Sugar Ester Emulsifier Together

1. Mix phase A until homogenous

2. Add phase B and stir gently to incorporate

3. Heat over water bath until the mixture is homogenous

4. Remove from heat

5. Slowly add phase C while stirring gently until a milky creamy ‘gel’ forms

6. Transfer to container

And here’s how I made my first batch

LisaLise’s First Batch of Sugar Ester Emulsifier

Ingredient	Grams
Apricot Kernel Oil	30
Orange Blossom Hydrosol	10
Glycerine	50
Sucrose Stearate	10

I decided to sift the sucrose stearate into the mixture to avoid lumps. This wasn’t called for in the formulation guide and may be unnecessary.

The mixture has a lovely creamy white color when the sucrose stearate is added.

After taking the sucrose stearate off of the heat, the oil is added slowly while stirring constantly

The texture was quite fluid and lotion-like after the oil was added but stiffened up to the mayonnaise-like texture pictured at the top of the post.

Next batch, I will be playing with both percentages and ingredients to see which kinds of additional textures can be created. This one functions beautifully but did turn out a bit more viscous than I expected.

Heike’s Suggested Method for Using the Sugar Ester Emulsifier in a Cold Mix Emulsion

1. Add desired amount of emulsifier to vessel

2. Add oil phase bit by bit (exactly as you would do with sucragel). Incorporate fully before the next addition.

3. Add water phase using the same procedure as the oil phase.

4. Emulsify mixture for approximately 2 minutes with a high speed mixing tool.

5. Add preservative, pH adjuster (optimal pH 5 - 5.5), fragrance etc.

Top Tips

Heike has also kindly allowed me to share these top tips

• For optimal viscosity, do not exceed 10% of sucrose stearate when making the emulsifier

• Choose oils that are stable and have a long shelf life to make your emulsifier such as jojoba, meadowfoam, squalene, and neutral oils.

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge Heike!

Visit Olionatura right here

Visit Heikes original post with her emulsifier right here

Raspberry Cream Delight

Here’s what happens when you combine handcrafted fresh-raspberry glycerite with St. Johns Wort infused oil and make an emulsion: pink fabulousness.

This is batch one of this product so it’s a bit early to say how it performs except to say I am loving it so far. The pink color will in all likelihood fade over the nest weeks, but we’ll see by how much and how fast.

Meantime, I am considering sharing this formula with you if it behaves nicely.

Fingers crossed!

If you want to make your own glycerites, check the e-book below. (click the picture to learn more)

Pine Cleanser

Here’s a peek at a product I made using the infusion from this post. The little pine cone and bit of green up there is taken directly from the tree for your viewing pleasure.

This cleansing balm contains green clay and a handcrafted rosemary blossom glycerite made last year. Also added are a couple of emulsifying waxes to help this balm turn milky/lotion-like and rinse away easily.

So far I am loving the feel and how it works on my (mature, sensitive) skin. This will in all likelihood not be the last batch I make

Click the picture below to learn more about making your own glycerine extracts for your cosmetics.